2011 – First Norwegians to summit Dhaulagiri

On Saturday May 14th 2011, Stian Voldmo, Øyvin Thon and Brit Volden became the first Norwegians ever to stand on the summit of Dhaulagiri!

Soaring to 8167 metres above sea level, Dhaulagiri is the world’s seventh highest mountain, and the highest mountain – until now – never summited by a Norwegian.

Dhaulagiri is a challenging mountain, with demanding glacier climbing the entire way from basecamp; bare rock with rope lines make up the final 15 metres to the summit. The route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is steep; ascending here is one thing, but the mental and physical challenges of this section really affect the descent.  With Basecamp at 4,600 metres above sea level, the route to the summit is long. The team traversed the mountain, before lining up their route to the top.

Despite experiencing winds at Camp 4 so powerful that the poles in the flysheet broke, the trip was going well. However, with safety and welfare a top priority for all six team members, and out of respect for a tough and difficult mountain, Einar Osland, Rune Snaprud and Bård Atle Lion Haug knew when to call it a day. Voldmo had turned back on Dhaulagiri in a previous ekspedisjon i 2008 due to mountain conditions.

Discovered by the western world in 1808, Dhaulagiri was, for 30 years, considered the world’s highest mountain, prior to Kanchenjunga being found. The mountain was first summited on May 13th 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition. Now, almost exactly 51 years later, Stian Voldmo, Øyvin Thon and Brit Volden were standing on the summit.

Stian Voldmo called home from Camp 4 (~7400 metres’ altitude) on Saturday 14th, and said the conditions for summiting had been fine: “We did everything we could to get to the top, so boy did we make it count. 3.30 local time we were on the summit, all in pretty good shape. We would have liked Einar and the guys up here too, but what can one say? The summit has been reached! A Norwegian flag has been planted!”

Here at Helsport we congratulate the whole team for achieving a significant feat, by a Norwegian expedition!

You can read the blog posts from the expedition and see more photos at gamme.no